If you want to see some detail pictures - take a look here.
Here you can find some pictures of Aerocurves builded with the aid of my plan.
All sail patterns will be hemmed so there is no need to hot-cut them. If you want to work without a ripstop nylon hem strip and only with a single hem you have to consider an addition for the hem and hot-cut the parts.
To economize paper, all parts of the cross sail are drawn in one pattern, because they distinguish only in total of length and arrangement of gaps. So it is possible to cut out the front cross sail (1x), shorten the pattern, cut out the lateral cross sail (2x), shorten the pattern again and cut out the back cross sail. The gaps should be cut out later!
the same with the front wings. At first cut twice out the upper half of
the wing, shorten the pattern at the broken line and then cut out twice
the lower half of the wing. If you want to, you can produce the wings
in one part – it saves one seam but uses more material.
parts have to be hemmed at the following edges: the four cross sails at
both rounded sides – not at the straight sides!!! The two back wings
are hemmed at all three sides, the front wings are hemmed nearly completely
with the exception of the seam with which both halves of the wing will
be sewed together. If the spine pockets are made of ripstop nylon, they
also need to be hemmed at the short sides (4cm).
At last, hot-cut the gaps in the cross sails. It will suffice to sew the reinforcements at one side, because reinforcements at both sides could become too thick when closing the spine pockets – but more about this later on.
Now follows the sewing: to make it easier it the Lamson is divided into two parts (the order of sewing does not matter): the front part consists of two side cross sails, one front cross sail and the two front wings; the back part consists of the back cross sail and both back wings.
it’s getting tricky:
The same procedure is applied to the other back wing at the same cross sail.
the more difficult front part:
you have used two parts to manufacture the wing, you have to connect these
parts now with a fell seam.
thin webbing or triple hem strip are sewed on all corners of the sail
with the exception of the outer tips of the front wings. These loops should
project out about 3 cm beyond the sail’s border. There are 14 loops
in total at each front wing; 3 at each back wing and one on the upper
and one on the lower edge of the back cross sail.
Do the same
with the back wing’s cross spars. When you install the outer battens
put them into a connector’s lower hole and then move the connector
to the gap.
Tie an 50cm piece of line to the upper wing’s front part middle loop (at the spine). After putting on the line adjuster, pull the line through the upper loop at the Lamson’s back part and back again to the line adjuster, tie it. Do the same with the second line adjuster at the lower spine. Now you can put the Lamson under tension lengthwise.
Shorten both spars to a length of 150cm, push them through the upper holes of the respective three connectors and put a split cap on it. Now you can put the Lamson under diagonal tautness. To do so, make loops from four pieces of line, of 30cm length each. To stretch it, put the loop through the sail’s tip’s eyelet and then in the split cap. When you pull the end of one loop to the split cap you can tighten the sail. When the right tautness is reached shorten the loop with a knot and put it into the split cap. The advantage of this: should the sail’s material have stretched, you can move the knot in the loop and ighten the sail again.
Lamson is almost finished – only a little bit flat. So the last
four vertical centers have to be put in. The length of the spars depends
on the connectors and the accurateness of sewing. Theoretically they should
be 44.6cm long – but you better measure.
have to find out the length of the last four lines. They run from the middle
back loop of the front part through a loop at the outer wing's tip to the
back end of the aoter battern of the front wing. (sketch 4) That's difficult?
Right, but also logical when you have a look at the Lamson. With these lines
the front part is tight to the back part, they form a whole. When you fasten
these lines with a line adjuster you can adjust them with the wind.
This needs to be done both on the right and left side both up and down as well as at the top and at the bottom.
bridle: (sketch 4)