John Maxworthy, Long Island, NY
Date: January 13, '97


This kite uses a horizontal spar with 2 standoffs and a corresponding line tensioner on each side of the vertical center spline. This gives the top wing a return angle from the initial dihedrhal angle from the spline.
I had built a couple of cross deck designs and wanted to eliminate the bottom winglet. This design evolved from that thought.

The materials needed for construction include:
Ripstop nylon, 3/4 oz. -- 5 yds @ 40 in. wide
Fiberglass tubing, .298" dia. -- 3 pcs x 32 1/2" lg.
Fiberglass tubing, .317" dia. -- 3 pcs x 39 1/2" lg.
Fiberglass tubing, .248" dia. -- 2 pcs x 32 1/2" lg.
Graphite tubing, .188" dia. -- 6 pcs x 32 1/2" lg.
Misc. -- arrow nocks, Fg rod for internal ferrules, barrel beads, 1/2" dia. metal slip rings, and 20+ ft. of line for the bridle and some of the connection points.


I have mentioned in several other of the designs I can not sew folded over hems on curved edges that look decent. Have always liked using black, double folded bias tape for these curved edges. This black bias tape also "outlines" the kite in the sky plus I don't need to add hem allowances to the panel patterns. This is your preference......

Before the panel cutting and sewing steps would be the planning of the graphics or panel colors. As suggested in the Kite Plan Index, this planning could use Paint Shop Pro or Windows Paintbrush.


I have gotten in the habit of using a lot of metal slip rings and short lengths of FG tubing for spar holders. This probably adds unnecessary weight to the kite, but I like the idea of everything being more durable. Whatever you feel comfortable using is always my suggestion.


#1 1 .298" dia. x ~79" lg. fg tubing w/ arrow nock on one end & internal ferrule of disassembly.
#2 6 .188" dia. x ~24 3/4" lg. fiberglass tubing . An option would be to use .248" dia fg tubing
#3 2 .248" dia. x ~13 1/4" lg. fiberglass tubing.
#4 1 .317" dia. x 13 1/4" lg. fg tubing.
#5 2 .317" dia. x 40" lg. fiberglass tubing w/ arrow nock on one end, an internal ferrule on the other end and a line tensioner.

Determine exact lengths at time of rigging.


Lines A (qty 2) are 55" lg. and lines B (qty 2) are 55" lg. Lines A are connected at points #1 and to the shown metal slip ring. Lines B are connected at points #2 and to the shown slip ring. Line C is 42" long and connected to each slip ring. The towpoint is selected on Line C depending on the wind conditions.

Takedown requires Step 1) loosening the 2 line tensioners, Step 2) removing the bottom half of the spline #1, Step 3) removing the #2 standoffs from the connectors on Panel C, leave them connected to the spar holders on Panel B. I epoxy them in place permanently. Step 4) Remove the #5 cross spars, leaving the #4 spacer in place and Step #5 is rolling up and bagging the kite for another day.

Of course, reverse these steps for initial setup.

The adjustment of the 2 top line tensioners does need some care that they are set at an equal length. Not adjusted equally will make the return angle of the top wing to be "lopsided" with one side presenting more "projected" area to the wind than the other side. You will notice this being a problem when launching and the kite continuously drops off to the side.

The use of the tail in higher winds speeds is recommended.

You can reach me by e-mail at: