John Maxworthy, Long Island, NY
Date: June 22, '98


The proportions for this Compound Cody are in the 1983 reprint of "The Penguin Book of Kites". There have had a number of requests for the plans and it seemed a good idea to make another with the sewing habits/ techniques I use now versus how constructed when originally built.

I have made several of the more commonly recognized Cody Bat Wing kites and this Compound Cody flies in much lighter winds and certainly doesn't have the lift (pull) of the Bat Wing version.

The materials needed for construction include:
Ripstop nylon, 3/4 oz. -- Approx. 3+ yds
Wood Dowel, 5/16" dia. -- 3 pcs x 48" lg.
Wood Dowel, 1/4" dia. -- 9 pcs x 48" lg.
Misc. -- arrow nocks, Fiberglass or brass tubing for the external
ferrules, barrel beads, 1/2" dia. metal slip rings and 10 yds of bridle line.


The panel sizes shown in the detailed instructions do not include hem allowances. The instructions explain the use of double folded bias tape instead. However, it certainly would be easy to not use the tape for the edging and add whatever hem allowances to your paper or paste board patterns.

I'm sure many "purist" kite builders would frown upon the use of ordinary double folded bias tape; but it looks good, is easy to use (particularly on curved panels), and allows adding different colors to acsent edges.


There must be a simpler, "cleaner" method of holding the tail and front panel assemblies taut on the splines than the shown method of pulling them together with bridle line, but I certianly haven't come across it. Everything else seems to involve adding weight, ie. brackets with thumb screws. I would certainly appreciate ideas from anyone interested enough to e-mail them to myself.

As mentioned in several other plans, I have gotten in the habit of using metal slip rings on the connection loops. This probably adds unnecessary weight to the kite, but I like the idea of everything being more durable. This is also true for my use of short pieces of fiberglass tubing as ferrules to hold the ends of spars. These ferrules allow me to easily assembly the kite by myself without any arrow nocks slipping out of a ring or loop while I am at the other side of the kite, Whatever end fittings you feel comfortable using is always my suggestion.


I see no advantage in using graphite or fiberglass tubes for the spars/ splines for this kite. The panel assemblies are not under a great deal of tension or bending forces, either as an assembly on the ground or flying in any reasonable wind condition.Of course, could always paint the dowels black if you like the "modern" look.

#125/16" dia. x ~56" lg. wood dowel w/ an arrow nock on one end. An external ferrule is needed to join the shorter lengths together.
#241/4" dia. x 24" lg. wood dowel.
#371/4" dia. x 48" lg. wood dowel.

Determine exact lengths of #1 & #2 at time of rigging. These can vary, depending upon the exact dimensions resulting when sewing the panels and installing the fittings/connectors.


A 80 - 100 lb. line will be strong enough for the towline. The four point compound bridle is handy when having to pump the kite to steadier winds aloft, but when there, the kite settles into position with the back two lines sagging as shown in the above figure in the upper right corner.

Takedown and setup requires only removing or installing the 4 vertical spreaders, #2 and the 2 wing spreaders, #1. The 7 splines, #3, are kept in place, rolled up with the kite and bagged.

There are instructions for making a storage bag with the ROK plans.


Several of the variations shown really appeal to me
and I intend on making them this winter.

You can reach me by e-mail at: