Sceptre Mk 2
These are my plans of the Sceptre Mk 2
kite. All I ask in return for using these plans is that you take the
time to sign my guest book. The plans show how to build a kite with
a 1.8 mtr span and a 2.7 mtr span. The construction method for both
versions is exactly the same, the text on this page mainly describes
how to build the 1.8 mtr version. If you would like the plans for
the 2.7 mtr. version then simply click on the link at the bottom of
the page. If there is any part of the construction you do not
understand, or you need help in any way, then feel free to contact
The idea was to design a kite that
would be simple and quick to build, but would fly as well as any
commercially available kite. The usual curved leading and trailing
edges of this type of kite have been eliminated and replaced with
straight lined edges, this cuts down the number of profile patterns
that need to be used, in fact the centre seven profiles of the
Sceptre Mk2 use the same profile pattern. The main difference
between the Mk 2 and the Mk 1 is the bridling, and also the plans
are much easier to follow. This kite is a power kite and caution
needs to be used in high
here for Sceptre 1.8 plan page
Approx 7sq. mtrs
It would be useful to
cut some of the templates from 1 mm thick cardboard. All pieces can
be hot cut or cut with scissors. No seam or hem allowances are shown
in these plans.
The profiles are the
ribs or formers that are sewn inside the kite between the top and
bottom skins. The flat bottom of the profile is sewn to the bottom
skin while the curved top is attached to the top skin. The angled
leading edge is left unsewn to create an opening at the front that
allows air to enter and inflate the kite.
See the main plan page
for the profile lengths needed.
The plan for the profile (Fig.1)
is drawn in percentages. To convert the given percentages into
actual measures, use a calculator to divide each profile length by
100, then multiply this figure by the percentage given.
all profiles allowing for hems and seams. I use 5mm for seams and
10mm for a double folded hem. Cut out holes for inflation in all but
the end profiles. Hem the leading edge as shown.
Cut a long strip of material 2.5 cm wide. Fold one
edge two thirds across the width and crease. Now fold the opposite
edge over to the already folded edge and crease again. Sew the whole
strip closed along the loose edge. From this cut as many 5cm strips
as you can. You will need 26 strips in all. Fold in half end to end
before sewing into place.
skin is made up of nine panels, the three centre panels are
rectangular in shape and are the same size, the outer three are
tapered. Using the diagram on the main plan page as a guide, draw
the half sail plan on a large sheet of paper eg. decorators lining
paper. Next, cut out each panel from the paper along the solid
Transfer these panels onto card and use these templates
to draw the panels onto your material. Use different colours for
each panel to build up your own pattern. Cut out each panel and
again allow for hems and seams. Draw the broken lines down the
centre of each panel.
Mark on each panel the position of the
bridle loops, the measures given are the distances from the leading
Sew these panels together with the bridle loops between the
seams. See "Construction Detail A" on the main plan page.
make up the winglets, and attach these along with the outer profiles
to the outer edges of the sail. See "Construction Detail B" on the
main plan page.
Sew the rest of the profiles to the sail working
from left to right, this avoids having too much material going
through the machine at one time.
Fig.2 shows the completed
The top skin can be made
as one full piece, or two half pieces, there is no need to make
Using the diagram on the main plan page as a
guide, draw the half sail plan on a large sheet of paper. Trace this
onto your material, use white material as this will not affect the
colours used on the bottom skin when the finished kite is in the
air, draw the sewing lines but do not draw the trailing edge at this
point (the reason for this will become clear later). When cutting
out allow for seams and hems and extend the trailing edge by 10cm.
Hem the leading edge.
Begin sewing the profiles to the top
skin, again working from left to right.
Sew the last profile so
that the seam is on the inside. To do this you will need to roll up
the kite from the finished end then fold the loose profile and the
top skin back over and round to enclose the rolled up kite. Sew them
together along the seams. The rest of the kite will now be contained
within the inside out cell. Turn the roll right side out.
lay the kite on a large flat surface, top side up, and trace the
trailing edge from the bottom skin to the top skin. Cut off the
excess material and close up the trailing edge with a hem or
Before starting the bridle you
may first want to make a simple bridle jig.
You will need a
length of wood around 2.5cm thick, 5cm wide and 120cm long. About
2cm from the end hammer in a 5cm nail leaving about 2.5cm sticking
out. From the nail, glue or tape a dressmakers measuring tape along
the length of the wood. See Fig.3.
To make bridle lines A, B & C, cut two lengths
of line - the first is 10cm longer than the C line, the second is
double the length of the first. Double the longer length of line,
and holding it with the doubled end at the top, allow the two ends
to hang down. Take the other shorter line by one end, and add this
to the doubled end of the longer line, tie an overhand knot forming
a loop 3cm long.
You should now have three loose ends at the
bottom. Slip the looped end over the nail on the jig, and lay the
three lengths of line along the tape measure. With a marker pen mark
each of the three lines according to the lengths shown on the plan.
Allow an extra 2 cm (this is for the knot you use to attach the
bridle to the bridle loop) and tie a knot.
Trim off the excess
Bridle line No.5 is a single line with a loop at one
Attach these to the kite as shown in Fig.4.
together all the loops in the left hand set of bridle lines and
using a 25cm length of 150-200 lb braided nylon line join all the
bridle loops together with a simple knot. At the other end of this
line tie a single overhand knot and use this to attach your flying
Do the same with the right hand bridle set, attach your
flying lines, and your kite is ready to fly.
Some fine tuning of your finished kite may be
required. If your kite flies too low shorten the front set of bridle
lines (the "A" lines) slightly, if your kite tends to fly over and
beyond your head then you should shorten the back bridle lines (the
Plans and Text by David Holt.
here for Sceptre 2.7 plan page